October 23 2022, 20:23

Reading “Brave New World” by Huxley, I came across the word chypre. Decided to look into it.

Turns out, “chypre” is not just the name of a specific cologne as I always thought, but the name of a certain group (formula) of perfumery scents, based on oakmoss, certain citrus (lemon/bergamot/orange), floral (rose/vanilla/jasmine), woody (sandalwood/patchouli/labdanum) oils, and musk.

And “Chypre” is the French name for the island of Cyprus, where oaks grow which host the lichen Evernia prunastri (oakmoss), from which the first, base component of the fragrance is derived. A lot of “oakmoss” isn’t used anymore, as it is a known allergen. But by definition, the essence of a chypre fragrance is based on oakmoss.

In the USSR, according to the standard, “Chypre” was included in the group of colognes classified as “Extra” with an ethyl alcohol mass content of not less than 70%. Ethyl alcohol, if it’s not of technical grade, is theoretically drinkable, which was practically proven by millions at that time. “Why is the label peeled off the bottle? — Well, what difference does it make to you? — To you it may not matter, but I have to place it on the table…”

(Personally, an elephant stepped on my nose, and I’m not so great with scents)