Category: Hybris

Today I learned how the hierarchy of leather products is actually structured. Everyone knows that faux leather is completely synthetic; it’s a layer of polymer on a fabric base. There is also cheap leather, often labeled as Genuine Leather, which technically remains an animal-derived product. It turns out to be the lower, looser layer of the hide, which on its own lacks strength or aesthetics, so it’s turned into a sort of sandwich, encased in a thick layer of plastic (polyurethane) with embossing. Essentially, cheap leather is split or compressed leather scraps (Bonded leather or bi-cast/tri-cast), glued together with plastic. It’s essentially akin to plywood or particle board.

How such leather is produced: 1) Leather scraps and waste are taken 2) they are shredded into small fibers 3) mixed with a binder – polyurethane or latex – resulting in a mass similar to pulp 4) this mixture is evenly distributed on a substrate, which typically serves as fabric or paper material 5) a roller or plate with a pattern mimicking natural leather is then pressed onto the surface of the mixture, creating a texture reminiscent of real leather. 6) After drying, a protective coating is applied to enhance the strength, wear resistance, and appearance of the material.

Expensive leather is called Aniline or Full Grain. Essentially, it is made from the top part of the hide (which is exposed to air on the animal). It is dyed with transparent dyes, and contains no plastic. Nubuck or suede is part of the hide which, excuse me, comes in contact with the flesh.

Many also judge the quality of leather by its smell, thinking that a distinctive aroma is the main sign of authenticity and high class. This is easily mistaken. The scent we associate with expensive leather is often the result of chemists’ work. Manufacturers of cheap bonded leather products use special fragrance sprays that mimic the smell of expensive tanning. Real high-quality leather, such as vegetable-tanned leather, smells more like wood, oak bark, or mimosa, because these substances are used in its processing.

Another professional secret concerns the edges of the product. If you see that the edge of a bag or belt is neatly filled with a thick layer of “rubber” or paint so that the structure of the layers is not visible, this is often not done for design’s sake. Such a technique helps to conceal that very plastic sandwich which makes up the material. Craftsmen working with truly high-quality Full Grain leather often leave the cuts open or just slightly polish them with wax, because they have nothing to hide — the fiber structure of such leather is equally dense throughout its thickness.