Tag: DIY

Navigating Nabokov: A Companion Glossary for “Lolita” | April 08 2026, 11:24

I have finally finished the book The Reader’s Glossary – essentially a 5200-word dictionary for “Lolita” by Nabokov, but organized not alphabetically, like regular dictionaries, but in order of the occurrence of complex words, divided by chapters and indicating the context of the word or phrase. The website – readersglossary dot com (see the first comment). It is expected to be used, among other things, as a companion book while reading the original. Yes, it’s twice as thick 🙂

The dictionary turned out quite thick – 600-700 pages. It is available in four languages – Russian, English, French, and German. Moreover, the translations (RU, FR, DE) or clarifications (in ENG) are not abstract but contextual, taking into account how Nabokov himself translated the fragment from English (“Lolita” was first written in English, then translated into Russian).

On my website, there are huge fragments of these dictionaries RU, FR, DE, EN available for review (each about 1/3 of the total volume).

There is also a full-fledged interactive dictionary on the site, where you can enter a word and see its translation or explanation. The dictionary mainly contains complex words, but we know that complexity has its own definition for everyone, so all words are divided into three categories and highlighted with different frames. Probably for a well-read Anglophone, the first category (dotted) is completely useless (about 50% of the dictionary), for the less-read, maybe 20% are useless. But I decided not to cut it further, because the book is not only for Anglophones but also for those for whom English is a second language, and there those dotted frames are very handy.

Overall, I did this “for myself and friends,” just for fun, not as a commercial project. Therefore, I am quite sober in understanding that it has a super niche audience, and if even once a week someone finds it useful, it’s already nice.

Although it was something like a hobby, the book took a lot of time. To achieve what I did, I developed a dozen applications/scripts, a couple of which have their own interactive UI, in which I spent many hours over two months of work. And of course, I learned a lot in the process, which is actually the main fun of it.

So, come to the website – readersglossary dot com. Link in the comments

P.S. In Russian – only as a PDF for now. Amazon doesn’t allow selling books in Russian, only in a small number of European languages in addition to English. The French and German versions of the dictionary will be released on Amazon about a week from now.

Unlocking the Mystery: Dual Voltage Needs in Smart Locks | March 07 2026, 22:43

Update: figured it out, looks like the lock needs 6v + 6v for different purposes. Maybe the power part and electronics.

Anyone who knows electronics, help me understand. Red wires are connected to contacts that respond to the tester. A total of 8 batteries. I can’t see a classic snake configuration here. Can’t understand why the lower right ones are responding. I want to connect an external adapter

Decoding Leather Products: From Genuine to Synthetic | February 23 2026, 18:11

Today I learned how the hierarchy of leather products is actually structured. Everyone knows that faux leather is completely synthetic; it’s a layer of polymer on a fabric base. There is also cheap leather, often labeled as Genuine Leather, which technically remains an animal-derived product. It turns out to be the lower, looser layer of the hide, which on its own lacks strength or aesthetics, so it’s turned into a sort of sandwich, encased in a thick layer of plastic (polyurethane) with embossing. Essentially, cheap leather is split or compressed leather scraps (Bonded leather or bi-cast/tri-cast), glued together with plastic. It’s essentially akin to plywood or particle board.

How such leather is produced: 1) Leather scraps and waste are taken 2) they are shredded into small fibers 3) mixed with a binder – polyurethane or latex – resulting in a mass similar to pulp 4) this mixture is evenly distributed on a substrate, which typically serves as fabric or paper material 5) a roller or plate with a pattern mimicking natural leather is then pressed onto the surface of the mixture, creating a texture reminiscent of real leather. 6) After drying, a protective coating is applied to enhance the strength, wear resistance, and appearance of the material.

Expensive leather is called Aniline or Full Grain. Essentially, it is made from the top part of the hide (which is exposed to air on the animal). It is dyed with transparent dyes, and contains no plastic. Nubuck or suede is part of the hide which, excuse me, comes in contact with the flesh.

Many also judge the quality of leather by its smell, thinking that a distinctive aroma is the main sign of authenticity and high class. This is easily mistaken. The scent we associate with expensive leather is often the result of chemists’ work. Manufacturers of cheap bonded leather products use special fragrance sprays that mimic the smell of expensive tanning. Real high-quality leather, such as vegetable-tanned leather, smells more like wood, oak bark, or mimosa, because these substances are used in its processing.

Another professional secret concerns the edges of the product. If you see that the edge of a bag or belt is neatly filled with a thick layer of “rubber” or paint so that the structure of the layers is not visible, this is often not done for design’s sake. Such a technique helps to conceal that very plastic sandwich which makes up the material. Craftsmen working with truly high-quality Full Grain leather often leave the cuts open or just slightly polish them with wax, because they have nothing to hide — the fiber structure of such leather is equally dense throughout its thickness.

Exploring Algorithmic Stylization in Plotter Art: A CMYK Fractal Journey | February 01 2026, 04:18

Now that I have a plotter, I am fully experimenting with ways of algorithmic image stylization. To achieve what is attached, a Minimum Spanning Tree algorithm was used. Essentially, it converts an image into stochastic rasterization – that is, where it’s darker, there are more dots, and then connects the dots with lines so that all points are connected in a single network, the total length of all lines is minimal, and there are no closed loops (meaning it’s precisely a “tree” with branches, not a “web”).

And this is what I do with each of the CMYK channels, then combine the result into a color picture. On this picture, there seem to be no other colors except for these four CMYK ones, but in reality, there is a bit because some smoothing has crept in.

Printing such on a plotter, of course, is difficult, I will be waiting forever, but I am getting the hang of it, I have already printed the first color picture (it turned out so-so. Well, the first pancake is always lumpy. Comments below)

Building a Plotter from Scratch: My DIY Journey | January 30 2026, 05:43

I assembled a plotter from a kit. It’s practically a Lego set – you spill out the parts from the box and then read the manual. It worked right away. I have some ideas about what to do with this thing, I’ll tell you sometime.

Designing 3D Volleyball Training Tools on the Fly | January 01 2026, 21:21

What I did on the plane to/from vacation and sometimes in between: 3D visualization and editing volleyball schemes for Nadya (she’s a coach). This court in the attached image freely rotates, players can be placed on it, and the ball and player paths are shown – all in 3D.

The ball’s trajectory is calculated so that it does not cross the net when moving from A to B (Bezier formula). Players can take several poses – right now there are hastily made poses for serve, attack, block, pass/receive. Interestingly, in the code: I had to write a bit of “volleyball brains”. The system itself calculates the ball’s trajectory through Bezier curves so that it always passes over the net. Moreover, the height of the launch depends on the type of action: for an attack, the ball “launches” from a higher point than for a pass. I also added auto-rotation: the 3D model itself turns its face to where, according to the scheme, it needs to pass or run.

The longest and most difficult task was creating the 3D model of a female volleyball player. To generate a realistic volleyball player, I used the tripo3D service. It gave me a model in a neutral pose (for free). Theoretically, you can then use Blender and the Rigify plugin to attach an armature to it and move its arms and legs, which would recalculate the model.

However, in reality, this approach does not work well: the AI-generated model contains a large number of geometric errors, which the renderer forgives but Rigify does not. They can be roughly divided into two types — incorrect polygon normals and issues with non-manifold geometry, which are significantly more challenging to fix. Inside the body, there may be “floating” clusters of polygons or intersecting surfaces. When Rigify tries to calculate weights (which bone affects which part of the skin), this internal noise confuses the algorithm, and as a result, the weights are distributed chaotically (for example, moving the arm might start pulling the mesh on the stomach). Plus, the model is slightly asymmetrical.

Non-manifold is a geometry error where the topology of an object ceases to be correct in terms of a three-dimensional body: edges may belong to more than two polygons, polygons may only touch at vertices or edges without a common volume, and “hanging” surfaces or zero thickness may appear inside the model. Such geometry formally does not describe a closed volume, causing problems with rigging and deformations. Moreover, the model needs to be simplified because millions of polygons are not needed for rendering in real-time in a browser.

I fixed these using MashLab, additionally refining by hand (“with a file”). In the end, the model turns out slightly different from the original almost everywhere. The original model had “skin” in the form of textures – the face, shirt, and shorts had to be colored. How to transfer all this to a simplified model? For that, there’s a special operation in Blender called Baking. This also involves some tricks. In the end, it didn’t transfer perfectly, but perfection isn’t necessary yet.

Next, we attach the armature to the “joints”, and after about three hours of figuring out why everything does not work as it should, it finally worked. I made four poses, and now each circle (player) can be told which pose it is in.

I’ll also need to make dynamic changes to the uniform colors – that shouldn’t be difficult. There’s also an idea to transfer poses from photographs – this is more complicated, but generally feasible. Using MediaPipe/AlphaPose, you can detect key points in 2D, then some models like HMR/HybrIK can “lift” flat coordinates into 3D space, outputting relative joint rotation angles. The resulting data can be attempted to be projected onto a Rigify skeleton. Since the proportions of the generated volleyball player and the person in the photo may not match, that’s exactly why Inverse Kinematics (IK) is used. This part is quite complex, but overall it’s not strictly necessary – just interesting to figure out and make something functional.

Video in the comments

From Freezer to Fridge: A DIY Cooling Hack | December 19 2025, 00:56

Today I sold a refrigerator. It has a story. The essence of it is that it’s not a refrigerator, although it looks like one. It’s a freezer. And it freezes on average to minus 18 degrees. I bought it second-hand, thinking it was a refrigerator. The buyer also came today thinking it was a refrigerator.

And here I realize that minus 18 degrees is not at all what I need.

Well, I am a Solution Architect. I didn’t want to dig into it, I just drove to Lowe’s and bought a simple blinker. It turns on and off according to schedule whatever is plugged into it. I stuck a radio thermometer inside (I had one) and adjusted the blinking frequency (20 minutes) so that the internal temperature was on average +4 degrees Celsius. The radio thermometer showed that the temperature fluctuations were very small – nominally plus or minus 0.5 degrees from +4, even less. And so it worked for me for some months until I realized that I just didn’t need it.

Sold it today with the adapter. It’s gone to the people.